I’m often asked by the readers of this blog that how is it to travel in Pakistan particularly, about female travel in Pakistan. Though I’ve traveled in Pakistan on my own, being a local, my experience can never be similar to that of a foreigner. This article summarizes an American woman’s experience of traveling in Pakistan.
I still remember the first time I learned that it was possible to travel to Pakistan. It was August 2018, and I had just returned from my first real backpacking journey through Southeast Asia, with the last stop in India.
As I delved deeper into the online travel community and started pouring over blogs and videos to plan my next trip, I was stunned by what I was seeing and reading about Pakistan, a country I hadn’t thought much of in over a decade, when I had an elementary school friend who hailed from Karachi.
Epic views, nice people, and a few tourists? Since I was already planning to go back to India, it only seemed right to add Pakistan to the itinerary. And in 2019, doing so was easier than ever. Pakistan changed its visa system, making it significantly easier (and cheaper) to get a visa as a foreigner. The system overhaul also meant that gone were the days where travelers like me could only get a 30-day visa– 1 year, multi-entry visits were now feasible.
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So armed with my shiny new visa and an open mind, on August 3rd, 2019 my boyfriend Charles and I crossed the Wagah Border from Amritsar, India into Lahore, Pakistan. At the time, we had very few plans. We were time rich but had no idea how long we would actually stay in the country.
Nearly 4 months later, we exited at the same border. What happened in between undoubtedly changed my life: not a day goes by where I don’t think about Pakistan, and dream about my return.
But how is female travel in Pakistan and what was it really like to travel in Pakistan as a foreigner?
Short version: Incredible. Long version: read on!
Endless Hospitality
Before backpacking in Pakistan, my boyfriend and I were bombarded with concerns from many family members and friends.
“Pakistan?!” “But why?” “Isn’t it dangerous?” “They hate Americans!”
Luckily, I’ve never been one to listen to fear-mongering, nor one to take travel advice from those who haven’t actually been to said destination.
I had done enough research prior to arriving to know that Pakistan’s security situation had improved exponentially in recent years, and to be honest, I was more excited than nervous. The glowing stories of travelers who had gone before me were all I needed. And though I had read quite a few tales about the people of Pakistan, meeting them myself was an entirely different thing altogether.
In a country that couldn’t be more different than my country of birth, I truly felt at home. From the chaotic streets of Lahore to the peaceful paradise of Phander Valley, we were constantly shown a level of hospitality I’ve quite literally never experienced before in my life.
As we tried (and failed) to find a late-night meal on the holiday of Eid ul Azha, a young guy around our age came up to us and insisted we savor some Qurbani in his home. He said he had seen us wandering around and wanted us to join in on their celebration. This complete stranger treated us to a 4-course meal complete with some of the most delicious mutton I’ve ever tasted, homemade chapli kebabs, biryani, and then some.
…And to think that this was quite literally someone we just met off the street!
While traveling in Peshawar, we stayed with a Couchsurfing host who refused to let us pay for anything (despite our many tries) while showing us all of the best spots in the city, including the famous Bab-e-Khyber that marks the beginning of the road to Afghanistan.
When we were hitchhiking in Yarkhun Valley, our camping and cooking supplies went unused as locals invited us to stay in their homes at each and every village. Well, if you’re still wondering how female travel in Pakistan is like, I guess you got your answer!
As we settled into a random hotel in Kalam in Swat Valley- a region marked as a Level 4 Travel Advisory by the US Government- we were met by truly unbelievable acts of kindness from the hotel’s owner. Not only did he go out of his way to help us exchange currency when we ran out of cash–and came to the horrifying realization that the nearest ATM was 3 hours away–but he also insisted we have dinner on the house every night of our stay AND treated us to a special barbeque in honor of Charles’ birthday.
Also Read: From Terrorism To Tourism – Reasons To Visit Swat Valley In Pakistan
And to think this is but a small handful of the seemingly endless hospitality we received. No matter the province, city, or village, each and every place we ended up the story was the same: Pakistanis proved beyond any reasonable doubt that they are the most hospitable people on the planet.
Coming from a country as cold and unfriendly as America, I was quite literally brought to tears by the ways folks would go out of their way to help us, converse with us, or simply make our day brighter. From random guys who insisted we share a chai or cold drink, to those who arranged transport or accommodation with their family members when they could, to the men who made sure I had a front-row seat to witness a Thursday night dhamal performance, I am still to this day bewildered by the kindness of Pakistani strangers.
Unlike other countries where locals remain indifferent to tourists or even worse, set out to scam them, Pakistanis truly treated us as their honored guests, something that is very evidently ingrained within the culture.
The naysayers could not have been more wrong– Hatred? Hostility? Nope!
At each and every turn we were met with nothing but kindness and respect. Though there are other relevant aspects to traveling in Pakistan as a female and a foreigner, this is by far the most important. Aside from anything else, it was the kindness of strangers, acquaintances, and new friends that made Pakistan feel more like a second home than a far-off land, and a place I cannot wait to return to.
Practical Advice
Security & Checkpoints
So now you know how incredible Pakistanis are, but what about the practical stuff and if Pakistan is safe for solo female travel? Here’s a bit!
As previously mentioned, the security situation in Pakistan has remarkably improved. As to the question ‘Is it safe?’ the answer is anywhere that foreign tourists are allowed to go is quite up to par safety-wise. Though Pakistanis can travel virtually anywhere in the country, foreigners are restricted from certain areas, though as of Spring 2019, these restrictions have lessened significantly.
While traveling through Pakistan, having your passport and passport copies are essential. Checkpoints are prevalent in certain regions (such as the road from Islamabad to Gilgit), so having copies ready to go will ensure your stops are quick.
Though female travel in Pakistan may not be very straightforward, everyone’s experience is different, we had very few issues. Interestingly, we weren’t asked for any documents while traveling from Peshawar to Swat and were only turned away from a destination once.
In the recent past, foreigners were not even allowed to travel in the Chitral district without a police escort. Now that the NOC (non-objection-certificate required for certain areas) rules have been seriously relaxed, we only had a hiccup whilst trying to head to Broghil Valley- a hamlet that sits extremely close to the border with Afghanistan’s (peaceful) Wakhan Corridor. In our case though, we were forced to turn back not due to geography, but because of a recent mountaineering accident in the area.
Albeit frustrating as it was to not be able to make it to the famed Broghil as planned, we were still free to explore all of Lower Yarkhun Valley, a place I had previously never even heard of. And in a twist of fate, Yarkhun Valley ended up being the highlight of the entire trip for me.
To avoid situations like these, I highly recommend scoping out the security situation on the ground before making any type of long journey. Currently, foreigners cannot travel to Neelum Valley (as it sits very close to the LOC (line of control) with India, much of Balochistan (though the beautiful Hingol National Park seems to be in play), and the former FATA region of KPK. Don’t worry though- as much as I’d love to one day see all of those regions, there are still thousands of kilometers of majestic Pakistani terrain that can be visited without issue.
For female travel in Pakistan, having friends or contacts (especially those in the military) can help you access more offbeat areas. Since foreign tourism has only recently restarted in Pakistan, (in the early 2000’s virtually nowhere was off-limits) set your expectations accordingly. Pakistan takes its security seriously, and while situations like what we experienced in Yarkhun can be pretty frustrating, these days, they’re far and few between!
Few Tourists & Friendly Stares
One of the things I loved most about traveling in Pakistan was the lack of Disneyfication. There were virtually no other foreign tourists- we only encountered a handful and in major cities at that. This made the experience that much more authentic– those that were backpacking here were doing so for the right reasons. People don’t come to Pakistan to party, and thus any fellow traveler you meet is likely there for the culture just as much as you are.
I had heard from others that traveling here would be extremely hard, but honestly, I didn’t feel that way. Surprisingly, I found traveling in India to be more overwhelming and exhausting than traveling in Pakistan, which might have something to do with the significant differences in population size.
Another reason why traveling in Pakistan is easy is that English is widely spoken. This is a massive privilege that definitely doesn’t exist in every country, and it allowed us to communicate in-depth with folks all over the country. Though we’re both now trying to learn Urdu, we were surprised to find that even in remote regions like Yarkhun, numerous people spoke English, including many children, as it is now taught in government primary schools.
Related: Pakistan Travel Inspiration – Here’s Why Travel Bloggers Loved Pakistan!
In my case of female travel in Pakistan with a male partner, I know I was protected from many of the woes and concerns that solo lady backpackers have to deal with. It is notable that most of the people you’ll meet and encounter in Pakistan are men, but I was happy to meet female family members by myself even when Charles could not. While I can’t speak on what traveling here would be like by myself, I’m extremely happy with the experience we had as a couple. While any foreigner will have to get used to stares (especially in locales that aren’t used to tourists), some sets of eyes never ruined my experiences.
For traveling as a female in Pakistan, it is highly recommended to dress locally. We both made sure to dress locally everywhere we went-I’m now completely obsessed with the shalwar kameez – and not only did locals seem to love this, but it definitely allowed us to blend in a bit more: in some parts of KPK, Charles was even mistaken for a Pathan!
Traveling In Pakistan As A Foreigner: Recap
Though I haven’t been to that many countries yet, I can say beyond a reasonable doubt that Pakistan is the most hospitable foreign country one can go to. Unlike other countries that either ignore tourists or treat them as a nuisance, Pakistanis seek to befriend and help travelers at each and every turn.
If you’re an open-minded person who loves adventure, real human connection, and honest, authentic travel, I couldn’t recommend Pakistan enough. The landscapes, history, food, and cultural practices may leave you in awe, but it’s the people of Pakistan that will have you (like me!) planning your return before you even leave.
Author’s Bio
Samantha is a self-proclaimed South Asia addict and hippopotamus lover born and raised in Connecticut, USA. She blogs about her indefinite budget-backpacking adventures at Intentional Detours, where she shares guides and stories to help and inspire you to get off the beaten track, too. Follow her adventures on Instagram & Facebook.
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It’s so interesting to read a foreigners perspective of being in a country you “hear” isn’t the best for foreigners! Great article, thank you!
I think I never would’ve thought of doing solo travel there, but after reading this, I’d definitely consider it. Great post!
I’m glad to know you’ve changed your perception. Thanks 🙂
I’m glad you had such a positive experience. I think there is a lot of worry and perhaps misinformation about travelling as a woman, but I hope this article will help others see Pakistan as a place they should visit!
I really enjoyed reading this post 🙂 it’s so refreshing to read about a less-visited country and hear what an amazing experience you had! This has definitely inspired me to research Pakistan a bit more and hopefully plan a trip there one day.
That’s awesome! You should visit Pakistan, I’m sure you will love it
What a fantastic post! It is awesome that you got to spend so long in Pakistan, and that you got to visit such spectacular scenery. It’s funny that so many people warned you against visiting, when people turned out to be super friendly. I would love to visit the mountains and go hiking. Those mountains look so inviting. 🙂
You didn’t mention much about it, but was the food fab too?
Hey Josy! Thank you for your comment. Pakistani food is on the spicier side and includes curries and staple dishes like Biryani. Not everyone might like it because of the spices but if it definitely worth trying 🙂
What an awesome guest post and how interesting to read about other people’s perspectives! From what I can conclude from Samantha’s experience, it seems to be quite different to travel as a foreign-foreign couple as compared to a foreign-Pakistani couple. With my Pakistani boyfriend, I’ve never received such nice treatment and everyone always tries to scam us lol. Maybe I should try to sneak out some day and start traveling around by myself haha!
Oh so sorry to hear about that, Arabela. Yes, this is the bitter reality in Pakistan. The locals are very hospitable and kind towards foreigners but not every fellow Pakistani gets the same treatment.
This is a great and helpful article. I would definitely be interested in visiting Pakistan at some point in the future. It looks absolutely beautiful!